Weimar: Goethe's Town
August 2004
Location:
Weimar, Thüringen, Germany
During my stay in Jena, I took a day trip to Weimar.
Weimar is a much more happening town than Jena. It also has a history as a cultural centre, not the least because first Goethe and Schiller and later Liszt lived here.
Weather:
Cloudy and humid, clearing up toward evening.
Instructions:
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The famous statue of Goethe (left) and Schiller in front of the theatre. The artist is Ernst Rietschel and it was erected in 1857. I would have liked a photo showing a bit more of the context with the theatre in the background and the plaque on the plinth but with all the other tourists that proved hard.
Part of the trip was a guided tour of the Goethehaus in the centre of town. It was fascinating to see how he had woven together his interests in culture and science inside the house. But this is Goethe's garden house seen across the lawns of Park an der Ilm, the riverside park.
Here we have come a lot closer, squinting up at the trellis on the house where Goethe lived for six years, from 1776 to 1782. Goethe's employer, the duke Carl August of Weimar wanted Goethe to become a member of his dukedom's council. But to be eligible, Goethe had to own property in Weimar. Unfortunately Goethe didn't have the kind of cash that would buy a house in the fashionable town, so Carl August bought this house and gave it to him.
Goethe installed one of the first abstract artworks in Germany in his garden. It is the Stone of Good Luck. The square stone symbolises the static, solid and resting principle. The sphere on top symbolises the dynamic, moving principle. I'm not sure how this would signify good luck but the German title is der Stein des guten Glücks. And it still looks neat.
The garden has been restored to how it looked when Goethe lived here. Goethe was keenly interested in botany and horticulture, as evidenced by the interest he took in the Botanical Garden in Jena. But I must say that compared to what the British were doing with their gardens in the eighteenth century, this one isn't very impressive.
Still, it's a nice place to while away an hour or so. Mallows, like this pink one, are on record as being among Goethe's favourite flowers.
The house and garden were restored in the mid-nineties. Among the things that were done then, were to return the colour scheme to one typical of the eighteenth century. Hence the calm, light grey colour of the inviting bench and table. Can you imagine Goethe sitting here on a summer's evening, considering his garden?
The garden at Goethe's garden house is divided into two parts. One is formal with paths at right angles, and one higher up on the hillside is informal. It was in the informal, unmown meadow that I found this scabious flower.
Goethe installed a gate just like this one. It looks a bit too grand for the fence, I think. But I guess when you are having dukes and other dignitaries as guests, you have to think about appearances.
It was getting late, so I walked back toward the town centre. Here is one last look at Goethe's garden house before it disappears out of view.
By the time I made it back to the market square, the sun had come out. This is the Neptune fountain. Why landlocked Weimar has a Neptune fountain, I do not know. The pharmacy in the background was a "court pharmacy" in Goethe's time too.
The puzzling maritime motif is continued on the facade of another building on the market square. This one had mermaids and mermen frolicking on its lintels.
I end with the backlit bell tower of the Rathaus. Earlier in the day, I had heard all those impressive bells. Thinking back on it, it had been a good day, creating many happy memories.